1.11.09

We're back - but not really. Have been in a limbo - neither here nor in India.  Existing between waking lassitude and intermittent deep sleep - not hearing phone calls, etc.  

So not grounded....but here's a go at catch-up.  After Mysore, we were in Fort Cochin, Kerala for several days where it was hot (!) and where computer access was limited to email.  Unable to access earthlink web builder; hence no entries 'til now.  

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New Year's in Fort Cochin was notable for burning/explosion of a 12' high Santa Claus (the metaphor was not materialism but the doing away with the old year...) and their carnival. Carnival had floats that featured Jesus, Joseph, and Mary (more on Catholic influence later) AND Siva, Parvathi, Hindu deities - boogeying to blaring rock music.  Alas, the images are in my mind (lost interest in photo-taking at some point) nevertheless - hilarious and crowd thought so too.

Fort Cochin was overrun with tourists from all over the world - very few from USA. Two who were Americans - I seemed destined to meet.  Sisters from LA - Sylvia and Patricia.  Sylvia attended UCLA and Berkeley at the same time as I did.  We really hit it off - politics, spirituality, etc.  Will stay in touch with them. Must also mention the Canadian couple who were bicycling all over S. India for 6 months, the Norwegian - Swedish couple, 

Jentz and Lina who met each other in Thailand and whose example encouraged us to be more adventurous than we would have. There was the Finnish couple who staying in Ernakulum, and of course Pepe, Anja and her boyfriend, Matte in Mysore.

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Fort Cochin and playing tourist grew old quickly, and I looked forward to moving on.  We missed yoga - realized I prefer having a reason to be in a country - other than sightseeing.  Highlights were the quality - Kathakali and music performances daily. I'm in love with Kathakali and couldn't get enough of it.

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Did do one yoga class in Fort Cochin - (C went back for two) which was memorable not for the yoga but for the teacher who gave a brief history of the area which is mostly Christian. Apparently St. Thomas (the apostle!) converted many Hindus by performing a miracle. Those converts and their descendants lived happily with their deities that became part of the Indian pantheon, Mary in a sari, etc - until the Portuguese came.  Then trouble started.  "Who's the Pope?" the locals said!  (This story is worthy of Catholicity.) Later the Dutch tore down a lot of the Catholic Churches - and then the British came.  In just about every home there was an image of Jesus....

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Last two days in Bangalore - will gloss over the rough patches.  Went to museum where there were exquisite examples of Mysore art - in the style of the painting of Chammundi (Durga) that I bought. Planned a trip to famous school of Bharata Natyan. It was closed. 

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Delhi airport still a mad house.  Trip back included 16 hour flight which was not bad. Luggage delayed and I'm still in the nowhere zone mentally....

metta

12.26.08

 

Today is Chuckmas day (Chuck's birthday) and we've done yoga, been to the market, had a delicious S.Indian thali, and done some shopping. I bought a small folk style Indian painting, and Chuck bought me a beautiful shawl. Nice way to celebrate his day...Tonight we'll go to a dance concert and Jagan Mohan Palace. 

 

Tomorrow is new moon - full moon and new moon are the ONLY days off BKS Iyengar allows - and we're grateful for this one.  Instead of class, we'll climb to Chamundi Temple (1001 steps) with Russell, go to Brigavan Gardens (Bollywood famous) and a sitar concert. 

 

I've wimped out on the trains. My excuse is that plane tickets are fairly cheap, there's not a lot of time, and I'm just not interested in the hassle. Possibly I'm getting too old  - yikes! So we'll fly to Kerala and back and save a couple of days that would have been spent traveling.

 

Christmas Eve -went to Ramakrishna Ashram temple - where there was beautiful chanting and a Christmas scene with baby Jesus - described much more eloquently by RS in an email two years ago. What surprised and delighted us was that the Hindu ceremony included The Sermon on the Mount and the Christmas gospel (someone who knows the Bible I'm sure could say which one that is -) in English and Kanada (language of Karnatika.)

 

Christmas Day we went to a pot-luck gathering at Joseph's (one of Pattabhi Jois's early disciples who organized his travel abroad for many years.  Very interesting man.) It included the usual yoga shala suspects, and we didn't stay long. Later we played Pictionary and had a great time eating peanut butter toast with Pepe and Peter here.

 

We've met so many interesting people. It is easy to dimiss them as a group of insular yoga fanatics, but that would not be fair. We got to know Anya (not how she spells it) a yoga teacher from Slovenia who turned us on to BKS Iyengar. She seems so wise...and was a pleasure to spend time with. Today I chatted with Christine and Jonathan from Canada. He's an intense yoga teacher and she's a perfect chatty counterpoint who happens to know a lot about contemporary art.

 

These words are simply not doing justics to this experience, and it would be a mistake to present our time her as all wonderful. It's the full spectrum, truly.  By the way, I've started to call the auto-rickshaw drivers "bad boys" - we always have a hassle with them and if one more "friendly" guy near the market asks me to go to an incense and oil factory, I may be rude. On the other hand, I'm learning to refuse offers and bargain without the other guy losing face. It's a skill.

 

Tomorrow - we'll study the first yoga series.  BKS scolded Omar, a fellow student today - "You've been here 30 days and you still don't the first series!" 

 

metta

12.22.08

 

Here I am at Alia's (where we are staying) on the computer - so access to the electrical source has not been impaired! 

 

We've had yoga for five days now. Some days I come back so exhausted I can't move for hours. We get up at 5 AM and leave for the shala by auto-rickshaw at 5:20. Big work out and almost every time, we get yelled at - "Fold de leg!!" (Bend leg in some obscure way.)  "Surround de body!!" (Wrap your arm around some body part.) Teacher is BKS Iyengar at the Pantanchali Yoga Shala in central Mysore. It's a classical old shala - replete with grime and vibes of many many years.

 

We saw a Bharata Natyam (S. Indian classical dance) a few nights ago -  notable for the hour and a half speeches made and turban presentations before the performance.

 

There are the expected struggles with auto-rickshaw drivers who continually want to overcharge. From my days in Kathmandu I really hate to concede a rupee on this issue. Makes me think of ex-husband David. He had a big influence on me...

 

Last night saw Russell again, walked around "his" beautiful lake, and had veggie burgers at "Cubs."  Today, a home made S. Indian lunch at a place with yoga students.  Made plans for bird watching Christmas Eve and an overnight at an Ayurvedic spa C'mas day.

 

Meditating daily after yoga. Some"one" is watching all "I" do. Stillness. I feel it at times.

 

gratitude

 

 

12.20.08

 

Everything is closing in Gokulum because the heart of the place- Patabhi Jois yoga shala - is closing until early January. Also closing is this internet cafe a block from our little apartment so looks like I'll be cut off for a while.

 

We've got 6AM Ashtanga class in town with a teacher who studied with Jois's teacher. (Grapevine has it that they are not pals...) It's very intense. I like it. You're expected to do all the asanas perfectly and if you don't - you get yelled at. So far that hasn't bothered me a bit - maybe the Big Bang has made me immune?

 

Other times we socialize with members of the yoga culture here, go sightseeing, and explore the city. An amazing temple today - which is going to inspire a sculpture assignment.  (Picture uploaded when there's more time.)

 

Tonight am hoping to get to a Bharata Natyam performance - South Indian classical dance. We'll see if we can find it.

 

We met with RS this week.  What a great guy - almost frighteningly smart, funny, interesting, and my favorite - he has a 'bad" attitude!

 

Christmas seems remote - and we haven't even realized how close it is. How refreshing to be free of some of the mania.

 

Okay, feeling rushed. More when the next computer place nearby is discovered.

 

metta

12.17.08

 

Adventures

 

So here we are.  This will be a quick summary.  There is SO much to say.  Trip here was madness 3 1/2 days without sleep and after seeing our flea bag hotel across from train stations, we asked cab driver to take us elsewhere.  Sweet sleep.

 

Then to Tiravanamalai and the inspiration of Arunachala - "Ramana's" mountain.  Was able to see it (and full moon) at many hours from our hotel room.  We planned to walk around on full moon night with the thousands of pilgrims who gather there.  After three hours I had huge blisters on the bottom of my feet.  We turned back and later learned it takes seven hours! (We had estimated 3 walks around Lake Junaluska@ 45 minutes each- about 3 hours.) When my feet had slightly recovered we walked 2miles on rocks to get to Ramana's cave.  Ouch.  Okay lots of thoughts about romantic ideas about spirituality clashing with reality - which make me smile - and which I will save for later.

 

We're in the center of yoga culture in Mysore right now.  It reminds me of Kathmandu in the 60's - without the drugs!! Interesting. Patabhi Jois shala is closed for a couple of weeks so we have signed on with another.  We did Surya Namaskar 1 and 2 for a preview with him today and both of us were wiped out. Oh, and class starts tomorrow at 6AM.

 

Lost Russell's phone number twice.  Will call him tonight.

 

There's just SO much. Learning curve in terms of getting around and managing has been SHARP. It's miserable when we get lost, but we come back for more, try again, and C has been great at finding things.

 

More thoughtful entries under less pressure to finish to come.

 

Metta

12.6.08

Hectic! Finished finals, ready to submit grades, and started to pack.

JS's friend Saara, who will be house sitting here, asked me if we had any second thoughts about travel in India:

Events in India have provided us with more awareness about this trip. Anything can happen and is possible anywhere at any time. 

P&L returned after some big adventures their last two days in Mumbai.

More in a about a week from Mysore and after Arunachala.  

Yikes - we're going....

Namasté